Table 3 Different variables of textile substrates that can affect the polymer–textile adhesion

Fibre types

Plant

Cotton

Cool, soft, and comfortable; absorbs and releases respiration quickly; durable but wrinkles easily

Elliot (2015), Korger et al. (2016), Mpofu et al. (2019), Pei et al. (2015)

Linen

Woven from the stems of flax; two-times stronger than cotton; absorbs and releases perspiration quickly; lightweight; non-stretchable and wrinkles easily

Animal

Wool

Ranges from scratchy to very soft; absorbs 30% of its weight in moisture; absorbs and releases moisture quickly; dirt and flame resistant; stronger when dry; performs as an insulator

Silk

Versatile, soft, and comfortable; strongest natural fibre; absorbs and releases perspiration quickly; easily dyed; retains shape and drapes well but weakened by sunlight and perspiration

Synthetic

Rayon

Strong; extremely absorbent; soft and comfortable; made in a variety of qualities and weights but wrinkles easily

Acetate

Crisp and soft; suitable for dyes and prints; shrink, moth and mildew resistant; low moisture absorbency and fast drying

Nylon

Strong, lightweight, stretchable, and durable; dries quickly; easy to clean; resistant to abrasion and chemicals; does not absorb moisture well

Acrylic

Lightweight, soft, and warm; dyes to bright colours; absorbs and releases moisture quickly; retain shape and resists shrinkage and wrinkles; hold pleats; resistant to moths, oils and chemical, and sunlight degradation

Polyester

Strong, stretchable, and durable; does not wrinkle; dries quickly; does not absorb moisture

Weight

Denier

Low denier count

Denier is a method for measuring the fineness of fibres, defined by the mass in grams per one strand of 9000 m fibre. High denier count fabrics tend to be thick, sturdy, and durable while low denier count fabrics tend to be sheer, soft, and silky

Hindman (2013a), Standard Fiber (2020)

High denier count

Stitch density

Low stitch density

Stitch density is a measurement of the number of stitches per inch (SPI) of fabric as it passes from the entrance of a needle loom to the exit

Hindman (2013b)

High stitch density

Weft density

Low weft density

Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The adhesion force decreases when weft density increase

Malengier et al. (2017), Mpofu et al. (2019, 2020), Narula et al. (2018)

High weft density

Warp linear density

Low warp linear density

The adhesion force increases when the linear density increase

High warp linear density

Pore properties

Fine

The pore properties include the pore size, pore size distribution, pore shape, and porosity determined by the fibre properties and structural properties, such as setting and weave type

Eutionnat-Diffo et al. (2019), Ragab et al. (2017)

Large

Surface

Finish

Mechanical

Squished, Circe’ finish, brushed or knapped

Korger et al. (2016), Meyer et al. (2019), Unger et al. (2018)

Chemical

Polymer coating (i.e. PMMA coating), plasma treatment

Washing

Washing agent, enzyme amylase

Texture

Surface appearance

Texture is defined by the surface appearance, structure, and thickness of the fabric. Texture is created by the fibre type, by weaving or knitting process, or by fabric finishes. Examples of textures include fuzzy, furry, soft, shiny, dull, bulky, rough, crisp, smooth, and sheer

Sew Guide (2020)

Structure

Thickness