Theoretical framework
The Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic Consumer Needs Model (FEA Model) has been used to identify functional clothing needs of target consumers (Lamb and Kallal 1992), such as for consumers’ hospital gowns (Cho 2006), women’s sailing apparel (Bye and Hakala 2005), and adolescent disabled girls’ clothing (Stokes and Black 2012). According to the FEA Model, function, expression, and aesthetic are three considerations for apparel (Lamb and Kallal 1992). Functional consideration is related to protection, fit, and comfort; expressive consideration is related to the communicative aspects of clothing; aesthetic consideration is related to the human desire of beauty, such as fashion and style (Lamb and Kallal 1992).
The current study only incorporated functional and aesthetic considerations from the FEA model. The reasons were the following. Both aesthetic and functional aspects are central criteria to evaluate apparel products, including martial arts uniforms (Chattaraman and Rudd 2006; Perry and Chung 2016). However, expressive consideration is not important for all martial arts uniforms. For example, Karate belt colors communicate rank levels, while Tai Chi belt colors do not have any meaning; Judo uniforms communicate cultural meanings, while Mixed Martial Arts uniforms are not related to cultural meanings. Therefore, the expressive consideration was not suitable to assess all martial arts uniforms together in the current study. In addition, empirical studies have indicated that functional performance and aesthetic appearance, rather than expressive consideration, are essential factors for sportswear (Dickson and Pollack 2000). Furthermore, to fit individual study contents, many empirical studies have also excluded expressive considerations (e.g., Jin and Black 2012; Michaelson 2015).
To meet the research purpose, variables were chosen and causal relationships were proposed. First, to assess martial arts practitioners’ satisfaction with their current uniforms, functional and aesthetic variables of the current uniforms were chosen based on the FEA model and previous literature (Dickson and Pollack 2000; Lamb and Kallal 1992). In the current study, functional attributes included quality, fit, comfort, and protection; aesthetic attributes included fashion. They were all modified from previous research (e.g., Bye and Hakala 2005; Chen et al. 2010; Dickson and Pollack 2000; Gupta 2011; Wheat and Dickson 1999). Quality refers to durability, construction, and resistance to shrinkage of the martial arts uniforms (Wheat and Dickson 1999). Fit refers to how well a uniform is conformed to the body and the balance between the uniform and the body (Chen et al. 2010). Comfort refers to the wearer’s feeling of the uniform (Bye and Hakala 2005). Protection refers to the ability to keep the body safe from potential harm (Gupta 2011). Fashion refers to the martial arts uniforms latest styles and how good the uniform looks on practitioners (Dickson and Pollack 2000).
Second, to assess practitioners’ purchase intention of new uniforms, four variables were chosen as antecedents: satisfaction with current uniforms, expected performance and expected appearance of new uniforms, and commitment to martial arts. Satisfaction with current uniforms, which refers to a practitioner’s overall experiences and pleasure with the current uniforms, was chosen based on previous literature (Olsen 2007). Expected performance, which refers to an expectation that the new martial arts uniforms would enhance the practitioner’s performance (Wheat and Dickson 1999), and expected appearance, which refers to an expectation that the new uniforms would enhance the practitioner’s aesthetic appearance (Dickson and Pollack 2000), were chosen based on the FEA model and previous literature (Dickson and Pollack 2000; Lamb and Kallal 1992). Commitment to martial arts, which refers to the level of priority given to martial arts (Mitchka et al. 2008), was chosen based on previous studies’ conclusion that commitment was a significant antecedent of purchase intention (Olsen 2007; Yi and La 2004).
Thirdly, functional (e.g., quality, fit, size, comfort, and protection) and aesthetic variables (e.g., fashion) of the current uniforms were likely to influence the expected performance and the expected appearance of new uniforms (Choi and Ashdown 2002; Dickson and Pollack 2000). Therefore, causal relationships between the current uniforms’ attributes and new uniforms’ expected performance and appearance were proposed.
Fourth, because commitment is influenced by various benefits, benefits of martial arts (e.g., enjoyment, happiness, and relaxation) and benefits of martial arts uniforms (e.g., protection from injury) were also chosen (Ju et al. 2009).
In sum, drawing from the FEA Model’s functional and aesthetic considerations, the current study proposed a modified model, including functional variables, aesthetic variables, and satisfaction with current uniforms; expected performance and appearance of new uniforms; benefits of and commitment to martial art; and intention to purchase new uniforms. Future studies may use the modified model as a theoretical foundation of functional sportswear. More justifications of causal relationships are presented in the following sections.
Current uniform attributes and satisfaction with current uniforms
The FEA Model suggests both functional attributes and aesthetic attributes influence satisfaction with a garment (Lamb and Kallal 1992). Empirical studies have shown satisfaction was influenced by various apparel attributes across numerous apparel products, for example, quality of apparel products (Kim and Damhorst 2009), function and style of disabled girls’ clothing (Stokes 2010), fit and comfort of in-line skaters’ clothing (Dickson and Pollack 2000), comfort and attractiveness of styles of female golfers’ uniforms (Wheat and Dickson 1999), fit and size of dancewear (Mitchka et al. 2008) and flight attendants’ uniforms (Santos et al. 2010), comfort, fit, construction, size, fabric, fiber content, style, fashion, and attractiveness of tennis wear (Chae et al. 2006), and aesthetically pleasant, fit, and safety of bicycle clothing (Steinhardt 2010). Therefore, based on the FEA model and previous research, both functional attributes (e.g., quality, fit, protection, and comfort) and aesthetic attributes (e.g., fashion) of current uniforms were proposed to influence martial arts practitioners’ satisfaction with current uniforms:
H1a
Quality positively influences satisfaction with current uniforms.
H1b
Fit positively influences satisfaction with current uniforms.
H1c
Protection positively influences satisfaction with current uniforms.
H1d
Comfort positively influences satisfaction with current uniforms.
H1e
Fashion positively influences satisfaction with current uniforms.
Current uniform attributes and expected performance of new uniforms
Functional sportswear is expected to increase a wearer’s performance (Choi and Ashdown 2002; Wheat and Dickson 1999). For example, runners want their clothing to meet expected performance (Leksrisompong 2010); pear workers want clothing to increase mobility and work efficiency (Choi and Ashdown 2002); golfers want to have sufficient back length to achieve an uninhibited swing (Wheat and Dickson 1999); sailors require uniforms which allow quick actions while the body is in a confined space (Bye and Hakala 2005); and soldiers want body armor to not restrict ease of movement (Starr et al. 2015).
Apparel functional attributes influence a wearer’s performance (Bye and Hakala 2005; Jin and Black 2012). Quality indicators, such as durability, sewing quality, and shrinkage, may influence a wearer’s action. For example, clothing may tear during training when the materials are not durable or the stiches are not strong. Shrinkage leads to a poor fit. Poor fitting clothing further restrains movement (Michaelson 2015). For example, loose thigh or tight crotch of rock climbing pants influenced climbers’ movement (Michaelson 2015), garments with excess bulk inhibit sailors’ mobility (Bye and Hakala 2005), and tight sleeves restrict tennis players when serving tennis balls (Jin and Black 2012). Similarly, ill-fitting martial arts pants (e.g., too narrow or too big) may restrict high kick actions.
In addition, injury affects martial arts practitioners’ performance (Feehan and Waller 1995). Therefore, protecting practitioners from injury is expected to enhance their physical performance. Empirical studies have also shown that rock climbers expect to have better protective pants to improve climbing performance (Michaelson 2015).
Furthermore, comfort is one of the major factors that increase sports players’ performance (Çivitci and Dengin 2014; Jin and Black 2012). Clothing comfort is not only related to the physical feel of the materials (e.g., soft or stiff), but also related to thermal balance, breathability, and the permeability of fabric (Bye and Hakala 2005). Breathable and permeable uniforms would help practitioners keep a comfortable temperature; however, the non-breathable and non-permeable uniforms may become sticky in sweaty conditions and therefore impede practitioners’ mobility. Empirical studies indicated that comfort influenced soldiers’ mobility (Starr et al. 2015) and it was the most important attribute that affects a runner (Çivitci and Dengin 2014) and male tennis players’ performance (Jin and Black 2012).
An important evaluation resource of future products’ performance comes from familiar products (Chae et al. 2006). The expected performance of a new future product is updated through consumption experiences of the current product attributes (Yi and La 2004). Therefore, quality, fit, protection, and comfort of the current uniforms were supposed to positively influence expected performance of the future martial arts uniforms:
H2a
Quality positively influences expected performance of new uniforms.
H2b
Fit positively influences expected performance of new uniforms.
H2c
Protection positively influences expected performance of new uniforms.
H2d
Comfort positively influences expected performance of new uniforms.
Current uniform attributes and expected appearance of new uniforms
Functional sportswear is also expected to increase the attractiveness of a wearer’s appearance (Dickson and Pollack 2000), especially for females. For example, female in-line skaters expected their clothing to enhance feminine looks (Dickson and Pollack 2000). Female sailors and bicyclists also hoped to have feminine and attractive styles of clothing (Bye and Hakala 2005; Casselman-Dickson and Damhorst 1993; Steinhardt 2010). Teen disabled girls were strongly interested in functional clothing with stylish details (Stokes 2010). Male tennis players also had style and appearance expectations (Jin and Black 2012). Runners, regardless of gender, hoped to have attractive running clothing (Leksrisompong 2010).
Fit is not only a critical element that influences garment performance, but also affects the appearance of the garment (Bye and Hakala 2005). Both too tight and too loose garments influence a wearer’s appearance. Martial arts uniforms do not offer special protection, unless practitioners wear additional protective equipment (Macan et al. 2006). The protective equipment, such as a chest protector and mouth guard, also affects a practitioner’s appearance. Therefore, fit, protection, and fashion of the current uniforms were proposed to influence expected appearance of new uniforms:
H3a
Fit positively influences expected appearance of new uniforms.
H3b
Protection positively influences expected appearance of new uniforms.
H3c
Fashion positively influences expected appearance of new uniforms.
Benefits and commitment to martial arts
The positive relationship between benefits and commitment has been reported in various fields. For example, employee benefits influenced organizational commitment (Ju et al. 2009); and learning benefits, social benefits, and hedonic benefits influenced commitment to online brand (Kuo and Feng 2013). While these studies did not focus on martial arts, the significant relationship between benefits and commitment may be applied to martial arts: benefits of martial arts may play significant roles in commitment to martial arts.
Martial arts practices lead to various types and distribution of injuries (Zetaruk et al. 2005). Protective gear offers benefits to both the wearer and the opponent: the wearers get protection from the opponent’s attack and the opponent can execute the action better without worrying about serious injuries he/she may bring to the protected wearer (Zetaruk et al. 2005). With protection benefits from injuries, martial arts practitioners may possibly commit to a longer-term practice. In addition, martial arts also offer hedonic and psychological health benefits, such as enjoyment, relaxation, and happiness by learning breath control and mind–body coordination (Woodward 2009). These hedonic and psychological benefits may also increase commitment to martial arts. Therefore, benefits of martial arts apparel (e.g., protection from injury) and benefits of practicing martial arts (e.g., enjoyment, relaxation, and happiness) were expected to influence practitioners’ commitment to martial arts:
H4
Protection positively influences commitment to martial arts.
H5
Benefits of martial arts positively influences commitment to martial arts.
Factors influence purchase intention of new uniforms
Satisfaction with a product was assumed to positively influence purchase intention of the product later (Olsen 2007). However, empirical studies have reported contradictory results. Some studies reported that satisfaction with previous purchase apparel leads to repurchase behavior (Curtis et al. 2011; Heitmann et al. 2007). Other researchers reported that satisfaction has little influence on repurchase intention (Olsen 2007; Suh and Yi 2006). In the apparel field, satisfaction with apparel purchases did not necessarily increase repurchase (Voss et al. 2010). To further understand how satisfaction with current uniforms related to purchase intention of new uniforms, a positive relationship between them was temporarily proposed.
Both expected apparel performance and expected appearance positively influenced purchase intention of apparel (Dickson and Pollack 2000). Athletes had similar dual needs for their uniforms: both functionally enhancing performance and aesthetically pleasing appearance (Wheat and Dickson 1999). Casselman-Dickson and Damhorst (1993) found that performance-enhancing factors such as enhancing physical performance and helping to ride faster were key determinants for considering buying/using cycling clothing, and at the same time, modest but attractive appearance was also desired. Dickson and Pollack (2000) reported that enhancement of performance and fashionable appearance significantly predicted in-line skaters’ clothing buying intention. Leksrisompong (2010) also found that running clothing’s function and aesthetic were two important predictors to purchase.
Commitment plays a significant role in product purchase and repurchase behavior (Olsen 2007). High-commitment customers have more repurchase intentions of a given product than low-commitment customers (Yi and La 2004). Similarly, people with higher commitment to a sport tend to purchase the specialized sport clothing (Mitchka et al. 2008). For example, the commitment to in-line skating significantly influenced consumers’ purchase intention of special skating clothing (Dickson and Pollack 2000).
In sum, purchase intention of new martial arts uniforms was proposed to be influenced by practitioners’ satisfaction with current uniforms, the expected performance and expected appearance of new uniforms, and practitioners’ commitment to martial arts:
H6
Satisfaction with current uniforms positively influences purchase intention of new uniforms.
H7
Expected performance positively influences purchase intention of new uniforms.
H8
Expected appearance positively influences purchase intention of new uniforms.
H9
Commitment to martial arts positively influences purchase intention of new uniforms.